How to Set Up an Isopod Enclosure

Isopods are fascinating, low-maintenance invertebrates that make brilliant pets and bioactive assistants. Whether you're keeping them as a standalone colony or as part of a bioactive vivarium, getting the setup right from the start will help your isopods thrive. Here's everything you need to know.

What You'll Need

Step 1: Choose Your Enclosure

For a small starter colony, we recommend a 9 litre plastic storage box. For display enclosures, a glass tank with a mesh lid works beautifully. Avoid wooden vivariums for isopod-only colonies, as isopods will chew through and damage the wood over time.

Step 2: Add Your Vents

Ventilation is crucial for a healthy isopod enclosure. Without it, air becomes stagnant, encouraging mould and mite outbreaks. Cut holes into the sides of your storage box at the dry end using an appropriately sized circular drill piece or a soldering iron, then fit your vents. We recommend using 3D printed vents — they give a neat, secure finish and are perfectly sized to keep even the smallest isopods safely contained.

The number and position of vents you'll need depends on the size of your enclosure and the species of isopod you're keeping. Tropical and humidity-loving species need less ventilation than arid species, which require more airflow to keep conditions dry enough. As a general rule, larger enclosures will need more vents to maintain good air circulation throughout.

Step 3: Build Your Substrate

Substrate is the foundation of your isopod enclosure. A good organic mix should retain some moisture while still allowing drainage. We recommend a blend of:

  • Organic topsoil
  • Rotten wood chips
  • Worm castings
  • Shredded leaf litter
  • Dried oyster shells or limestone

Aim for a depth of at least 5–8cm so your isopods can burrow and feel secure. Some larger or burrowing species may require a deeper substrate of 10cm or more, so always research the specific needs of your species before setting up.

Step 4: Add Enrichment and Hides

At the damp end, cover the surface with moist sphagnum moss. At the dry end, add cork bark, rotten wood, and botanicals. These provide essential hides and foraging opportunities, keeping your isopods active, stimulated, and well-fed. Rotten wood doubles up as both a hide and a long-lasting food source — isopods will slowly break it down over time. Botanicals such as lotus heads and seed pods add further enrichment and make the enclosure look naturalistic and beautiful.

Step 5: Security and Humidity Regulation

Cover the dry end with a thick layer of dried leaves — this gives your isopods the confidence to move freely throughout the enclosure while also helping to regulate humidity. To finish, add a couple of hides to the damp side. A lotus head tucked into one corner beneath the moss, and a small piece of cork bark placed on top, works beautifully. This gives your isopods a choice of how much humidity they are exposed to, allowing them to move freely between the wetter and drier areas depending on what they need. Finally, tuck a calcium source — such as a piece of cuttlebone or dried eggshell — under a piece of cork bark or rotten wood. Isopods need calcium for healthy moulting, and placing it in a sheltered spot encourages them to seek it out naturally.

Step 6: Add Springtails

We strongly recommend adding springtails to your enclosure. Springtails are tiny, harmless microarthropods that act as a natural cleanup crew — they feed on mould, fungi, and decaying matter, helping to keep your enclosure clean and well-balanced. They are particularly valuable during the cycling process, when mould growth is at its highest, and will continue to work alongside your isopods long term to maintain a healthy environment. Simply introduce a small culture directly onto the substrate and let them establish naturally.

Step 7: Let Your Enclosure Cycle

We recommend setting up your enclosure at least a week before introducing your isopods. This process is known as cycling — it allows excess humidity to escape and the enclosure to balance out naturally, creating a stable environment that's ready to support a thriving colony.

Warning: During the first week, you may notice mould appearing in your enclosure. This is completely normal and is a natural part of the cycling process — it will not harm your isopods. However, if you spot any large, furry patches of mould, it's worth squashing these down to prevent young isopods from getting stuck in them.

Please note: while this basic setup will suit many isopod species, different species may require adaptations to temperature, humidity levels, substrate composition, or enclosure size. We always recommend researching the specific needs of your species before setting up.