Basic Care & Information

What Are Isopods?

Isopods are small terrestrial crustaceans, closely related to crabs and shrimp. You may know them by their common names — woodlice, pill bugs, or roly-polies. In the hobby world, they are kept as fascinating pets in their own right, and are widely used as a clean-up crew in bioactive vivariums and terrariums, where they help break down waste and maintain a healthy environment.

Please note that the information on this page covers general isopod care. Species-specific requirements, including preferred temperature ranges, humidity levels, and dietary needs, can be found on each individual livestock listing.

Acclimating New Arrivals

When your isopods arrive from Dainty's Pods, they may appear inactive at first — this is completely normal after the stress of transit. Place them directly into their prepared enclosure and allow them time to settle. Provide hiding spots, moisture, and food, and resist the urge to disturb them for the first 24–48 hours. In most cases, they will begin exploring and feeding within a short time. If you have any concerns after 24 hours, please don't hesitate to get in touch.

Housing & Enclosure

Isopods can be housed in a variety of containers, including plastic tubs, glass tanks, or specialist isopod enclosures. Ventilation is important — vents in the side of the enclosure will allow airflow while retaining humidity. The size of the enclosure will depend on the species and colony size, but as a general rule, more space is always better. Avoid direct sunlight, as this can cause overheating and rapid moisture loss. Always check the individual species requirements before setting up your enclosure.

Substrate

A good substrate is essential for the health and wellbeing of your isopods. A mix of organic topsoil and organic compost forms a great base, with rotten wood and leaf litter mixed in to provide additional nutrition, structure, and hiding spots. This combination closely mimics their natural environment and encourages natural behaviours. Substrate should be 2 to 5 inches deep to allow your isopods to burrow comfortably and feel secure. Some species prefer a drier substrate, while others thrive in more moisture-retentive mixes — always check the individual species requirements.

Humidity & Temperature

Most isopod species prefer a humidity gradient within their enclosure — a wetter side and a drier side — allowing them to self-regulate. Lightly misting one side of the enclosure every few days is usually sufficient. The ideal temperature for most commonly kept species is between 18°C and 24°C. Always use a thermostat to regulate the temperature and prevent dangerous fluctuations. Avoid placing enclosures near radiators, draughts, or cold windowsills. Always check the individual species requirements, as some species may need warmer or cooler conditions.

Enrichment & Decoration

Enriching your isopod enclosure not only makes it more visually appealing but also promotes natural behaviours and improves the wellbeing of your colony. Cork bark, pieces of rotten wood, leaf litter, and sphagnum moss are vital — they serve as an important food source, facilitate healthy moulting, create essential moisture and humidity gradients, and provide hiding spaces. Pine cones, sweetgum seed pods, lotus pods, acorn cups, and small rocks make excellent hides and climbing features. Dried leaves, sphagnum moss, and live plants can all be added to create a more naturalistic environment. Avoid any decorations that have been treated with chemicals or varnishes, and always ensure any new additions are free from pesticides before placing them in the enclosure.

Feeding

Isopods are detritivores, meaning they feed on decaying organic matter. Leaf litter and rotten wood are staple food sources and should always be available. Calcium is important for healthy exoskeletons and successful breeding — common ways to provide calcium include eggshells, cuttlefish bone, and calcium powder. Protein is the next most important nutrient, especially for protein-hungry species such as Dairy Cow isopods; this can be supplied using dried shrimp, fish food, and worms. You should also supplement their diet with small amounts of vegetables (such as courgette, carrot, or cucumber), dried mushrooms, and specialist isopod foods. Remove any uneaten fresh food after a day or two to prevent mould. Always check the individual species requirements, as dietary preferences can vary.

Springtails & Enclosure Maintenance

Springtails are tiny arthropods that make excellent companions for isopods in bioactive setups. They play a vital role in maintaining a healthy enclosure by feeding on mould, fungus, and decaying organic matter that isopods may leave behind. Adding springtails to your enclosure helps prevent mould outbreaks, keeps the substrate clean, and contributes to a balanced micro-ecosystem. They are harmless to isopods and thrive in similar humid conditions, making them an essential part of any bioactive setup.

Isopod enclosures are largely self-maintaining when set up correctly, especially in bioactive setups where isopods and springtails work together to break down waste. However, some light maintenance is still beneficial. Remove any uneaten fresh food before it begins to rot, and spot-clean any areas of visible mould if it becomes excessive. Avoid deep-cleaning or fully stripping the enclosure, as this disrupts the established micro-ecosystem and can stress your colony. Top up substrate, leaf litter, and food sources as needed, and check moisture levels regularly to ensure the humidity gradient is maintained.

Breeding & Reproduction

Isopods are relatively straightforward to breed when their basic needs are met. A healthy, well-fed colony with the right humidity, temperature, and hiding spots will typically breed without any intervention. Females carry their eggs in a brood pouch called a marsupium, and the young emerge as miniature versions of the adults. Providing plenty of protein and calcium is especially important during breeding periods to support successful reproduction and healthy offspring. Avoid disturbing the enclosure too frequently during this time, as stress can cause females to reabsorb their eggs. Colony growth can be slow at first but will accelerate as the population establishes itself — patience is key.

Common Problems & Troubleshooting

If your colony seems inactive or is not thriving, first check the basics — temperature, humidity, and food availability are the most common causes. A sudden die-off can sometimes indicate exposure to chemicals, so review anything that may have come into contact with the enclosure. Excessive mould is usually a sign of overfeeding or insufficient ventilation; reduce fresh food portions and ensure airflow is adequate. If you notice mites other than the harmless grain mites that sometimes appear on food, remove the affected substrate and increase enclosure hygiene. Escapes are most common in species that can climb smooth surfaces — a thin layer of petroleum jelly around the upper interior rim of the enclosure can help. If you are ever unsure or concerned about the health of your colony, please don't hesitate to get in touch with us at Dainty's Pods.

Handling & Tips

Isopods are generally best observed rather than handled frequently, as they can be delicate and fast-moving. If you do need to handle them, do so gently and close to a surface in case they drop. Wash your hands before and after handling to avoid transferring any harmful substances. Avoid using any pesticides, cleaning products, or scented items near your enclosure, as isopods are highly sensitive to chemicals.

Fun Facts

Isopods are crustaceans, making them more closely related to crabs and lobsters than to insects.
There are over 10,000 known species of isopod worldwide, ranging from tiny soil-dwellers to deep-sea giants — making them one of the most diverse crustacean groups on the planet.
Isopods breathe through gill-like structures called pleopods, which is why they need humidity to survive.
They have blue blood, thanks to a copper-based protein called haemocyanin — the same as crabs and lobsters.
Female isopods carry their eggs and young in a fluid-filled pouch called a marsupium until they are ready to emerge.
Unlike most animals, isopods do not urinate. Instead, they excrete waste nitrogen as ammonia gas directly through their exoskeleton — a highly efficient adaptation to life on land.
Isopods can absorb water through their rear end — a useful adaptation that allows them to rehydrate quickly from damp substrate without needing to drink in the conventional sense.
Isopods practise coprophagy — meaning they eat their own faeces. This allows them to extract additional nutrients that weren’t fully absorbed the first time around, making them incredibly efficient recyclers.